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When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the family completely shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.